Showing posts with label geisha. Show all posts
Showing posts with label geisha. Show all posts

Monday, April 6, 2015

How to Put On a Furisode Kimono

Long time, no post!

I ran across this video today, and while I might make my own English-language one in the future, thought those looking for instructions for how to wear a furisode would find this helpful visually.


Auto-translate isn't working at all, but it's no loss anyway as Mom and daughter are just chatting about random stuff and not explaining anything about what Mom is doing as she dresses her.

If you have questions, please direct them to me on Facebook or Tumblr, as I don't check in here that often anymore. Thank you!

Sunday, November 16, 2014

Maiko, Oiran, Geisha: What is the Difference?

Happy Holidays, everyone!

I've made a video version of one of the most popular posts on this blog, the basic visual differences between a geisha, maiko, and oiran. Hope y'all enjoy!


Tuesday, May 27, 2014

Kyoto Geisha Dance Performance - The Miyako Odori

The Kyoto Miyako Odori is the biggest and most famous geisha dance in Japan, and this year I finally had the chance to go! I made a mini-review featuring a bit of the optional Japanese tea ceremony with a real geisha and maiko beforehand, souvenirs I got, and a couple of tips for tourists who will be in Kyoto in April.

I really enjoyed this: the geisha and maiko were beautiful and elegant, the sets were amazing, and it's easy to see why this is so famous. I feel it would be a true highlight of any April Kyoto trip, not only for kimono or geisha fans but anyone who wants to see traditional Japanese culture.


 

For more about geisha, check out these other articles:




Friday, May 23, 2014

What is a Geisha? A Short Introduction

Hello, my readers! I'm back! I recently had the idea to do a series of posts on geisha, so that'll be the theme for the coming months. Let me know if there's anything in particular you'd like to know about, and if I can find the information I'll add it to the list.

So, what is a geisha?

Geisha in Niigata
Photo by Joi Ito.


The simple answer is that a geisha is a non-sexual entertainer who is prized for witty conversation, musical or dancing skill, and protects traditional Japanese heritage through the learning of classical traditions, like dance and tea ceremony.

The complicated answer is best framed in another question: “When are you asking about?”


What is a geisha? Around 1750… Street musicians and sometimes more.

An oiran, an extremely high-class courtesan. Photo by Gene Jackson.

When geisha first appeared (they were male, by the way!) around the 1750s, they were the equivalent of street buskers and musicians you see on street corners and subways today. While male customers were relaxing at parties or waiting in line at high-end brothels for the famed oiran or other prostitutes, the geisha would come in off the street to tell a few jokes or play some songs.

Eventually the profession was taken over by women, and this began raising carefully painted eyebrows around the sanctioned red-light districts as the geisha began throwing their own unlicensed parties. The courtesans and prostitutes didn’t appreciate the idea of these wandering musicians stealing customers from them, and so a law was passed that geisha were forbidden from engaging in sexual acts with customers.

Geisha didn’t mind. They were fun and engaging entertainers, able to banter in high-brow ways one minute and play bawdy songs the next, and unlike the oiran (high class courtesans) of the time, you didn’t need ungodly amounts of money or an introduction by exactly the right handful of people to party with them.

Ironically, the fate of the oiran would be the ultimate fate of the geisha themselves, but we’ll get to that later.


What is a geisha? Around 1850… The “It” girls of society. But no sex, please!

Geisha posing with a shamisen, 1870s.


By this time the oiran were out of favor, seen as stuffy and out-of-date by the party people. They’d survive, in severely reduced numbers, but it was the geisha's time to shine. 

There were still prostitutes, of course, but the best parties always had a geisha or four in attendance to sing, dance, tell jokes, and strike up interesting conversations with guests.

This was the heyday of the geisha: painters and illustrators put them all over both fine works and the popular “trading cards” of the day (cheap, mass-printed posters), every nobleman worth his salt clamored to have them at his parties, and they hung out with the superstars of the day.

What geisha wore set trends. One of the most classic obi (sash) knots worn by normal women in kimono today is the “otaiko”, the boxy-looking square. What many don’t know is this is a knot invented by some geisha to celebrate the opening of a bridge with the same name. Townswomen soon copied them and it spread from there.


What is a geisha? Early 1900s… The awkward phase.

 The trendy "modern girl" style.

Remember the oiran from earlier? They fell out of favor because their world was seen as too old-fashioned and formal compared to the fun and relaxing times geisha offered.

By 1920 geisha found themselves being boxed into the less than coveted spot of stuffy, snobby entertainers. Why? The mad rush to Westernization begun by Emperor Meiji had started all sorts of interesting new trends, one of which was the café hostess.

Geisha houses, while less ritualized than oiran brothels, still required introductions and a good amount of money from customers.

The hostesses, charming and simple in their cutting-edge "modern girl" styles, only required you to buy a drink to sit in the café and chat with them.

As far as being trendy entertainers went, the geisha collectively knew they were toast.

And they were right: to this day the hostesses and their brethren hosts still exist and have taken over the geisha spot as non-sexual entertainers who specialize in conversation.

A few geisha houses had initially experimented with things like putting geisha in full-on Victorian corseted dresses and even having line-dancing geisha, but in the end the geisha realized they had two choices: give up and become café hostesses or reinvent themselves as symbols and protectors of tradition. 

They went with the second choice.

Which brings us to…


What is a geisha now? Classic entertainer, mystery, and symbol of Japan.

Geisha are still available for hire today, if you have an introduction from a current client or friend of the house and the right amount of money and prestige. Some houses have gone so far as to start partnering with hotels or trusted agencies to even forego the introduction and lower the cost, but geisha are still very expensive and a rarity to see entertaining in person.

They have also become symbols of the country’s traditions and history, continuing to participate in cultural events like shrine ceremonies and used in Japanese ads whenever a company wants to evoke the feeling of old Japan.

Most Japanese don’t know anything about them, however, beyond the white face and tall clogs of the apprentice geisha and the association with Kyoto, where most of the remaining ones live and work.

Geisha, much as they did in their earliest days, still entertain clients with wit and humor. While geisha a hundred years ago was expected to be an expert in a wide variety of traditional arts, today one will normally focus on a single talent like dancing, singing, or playing one or two instruments.

This is no doubt partly due to the fact their training now begins years later than it used to, as modern Japanese law requires all children to finish at least middle school (9th grade in American schooling) before setting out into the working world.

All in all, a geisha is a tough, hard-working woman dedicated to a traditional world rapidly fading from the Japan of today.

Photo by Elsie Lin.


Note 1: If you’ve heard about “mizuage”, the ceremony where an apprentice geisha’s virginity was sold off as part of her debut as a fully fledged geisha, the truth is it’s not a clearly understood topic even in Japan and Japanese historical accounts within Japan itself debate the details of mizuage.

There is one clear point about mizuage, however. Does it happen today?

No. Since the 1950s and the post-occupation outlawing of prostitution, mizuage no longer occurs within the geisha world.

Note 2: Some people ask why I write "geisha" instead of "geishas" when I'm referring to the plural. The answer is personal preference, because once you learn enough Japanese the "s" just sounds wrong, as geisha in Japanese refers to both the singular and plural. It's like saying "sushis" to me.

Note 3: These posts are geared at people who know little to nothing about the geisha world, so those who do know a lot will notice I'm summing up and glossing over certain things for the sake of creating a clean, brief intro to a very complex world.

Tuesday, May 14, 2013

Secrets of the Apprentice Geisha TV Show

Maiko, apprentice geisha, are mysterious even to many Japanese, and on this variety show, they go through a list of things viewers might be surprised to learn about maiko.

Maiko Kanoyumi is the guest. Here's a quick rundown of what they talk about!



Included are the following "secrets":

-They can't use their cell phones in front of people.

-They wear kimono everyday.

-They don't wash their hair for a week (due to it having to be set in the traditional style with camellia oil, etc.).

-They have lessons everyday.

-They are not supposed to talk when walking down a street (to add to their elegant personas, I believe).

-They are not supposed to enter any "low-brow" places like convenience stores, Starbucks, or McDonald's.

-For one month they wear the same hairpin decorations (kanzashi). (The reason for this is the kanzashi reflect the seasonal flowers or motifs of each month.)

-For one month they wear the same formal kimono when they dress up. (Same reason as the kanzashi.)

-They wear tall wooden "okobo" clogs.

-They call male guests "onii-san" (older brother) and female guests "onee-san" (older sister). I've read this is to respect their privacy at parties, where things can easily be overheard in other rooms.

At the end there's a funny bit where one man in the host audience asks Kanoyumi about the hair washing, and what day in the 7 days it is. She says it's been three days since she's washed her hair, and he asks the old man next to her to smell her hair.

He pronounces it "good-smelling." The maiko and the guy in front (I'm assuming a sumo wrestler) say they do the same sort of hair styling, so the guy asks the old man to smell his hair too! He agrees that it's the same good smell. :)



Sunday, September 25, 2011

Spotting Fakes With Halloween Costumes

One of the requests I get most often, and can't grant, is photos of fakes, mostly due to permission issues and me not wanting to embarrass individuals.

The good news is that Halloween is a perfect time of year to test your kimono knowledge as the costume market gets flooded with knock-offs of varying quality and you can see them in-person in stores (or online if you're overseas). In all my years in America, I have yet to see a mass-produced costume that is even close to a real kimono, but it's interesting to see what gets "lost in translation" and what the designers keep.

Yesterday, I took this snapshot at a certain popular retailer. Test your knowledge: How much is wrong with this outfit? You can check your answers below.




The sleeves are wrong. There should be no contrasting hems, collars or trim. It appears to be a solid skirt on the bottom instead of one side folded over the other. The material is cheap, thin satin. The obi is also cheap satin and bunched up. They did actually get the total length and left-over-right part correct on the collar, however!

(As a note, I have nothing against people wearing these sorts of costumes for Halloween or any other costume event. :) The issue is when people assume real kimono look like the cheap costumes they've seen and get taken advantage of by unscrupulous sellers.)

Friday, September 9, 2011

Video: A Day in the Life of a Geisha

I find the world of the geisha interesting, as it seems anyone who collects kimono eventually finds their way to a book... or two... or three... about geisha (they're some of the few women left in Japan who wear kimono on a daily basis).

However, it can be hard to find unbiased, even reporting about geisha in the West. There's not a lot of information in English, but there are plenty of stereotypes (exotic, unknowable Japan we can never exotically know!) and misconceptions (geisha = prostitutes) and they tend to color most of what gets put out in the media.

So it made me quite happy to see The Telegraph's "A Day in the Life of a Geisha".

Miehina is a real geisha working in Kyoto. Rather than adoringly focus on the glitzy side of her profession (beautiful clothing, public performances, exotic whiteface) as it seems many reporters do, Glen Milner chose to clearly show that it has ups and downs, like any other job.

The kimono, dancing, and make-up are there, but there is also honest talk about how tired she is with her schedule of training and entertaining, and she is shown speaking directly into the camera fresh-faced. The dance shown is not on a stage, but in a small room with cars driving past the window behind her.

To me, the whole feel of the video was of a real person working hard at something that she loves, and something that demands a lot of her. Check it out if you get a chance!

Thursday, June 9, 2011

Kimono Costumes: Geisha and "Samurai Darth Maul"

I'm sometimes asked what I do with the kimono I collect. The answer is usually "wear them when I have the opportunity" or "show them at educational panels," but as a costuming geek I also have fun working them into costumes when I can.

So a couple of weeks ago at Houston's Comicpalooza convention (awesome, can't wait for next year!) I wore these two:

Geisha "Ayame"

This costume has been a long labor of love as I kept an eye out for pieces in my price range, but I finally pieced together a decent "starter" geisha look! It involves a hikizuri (trailing kimono often worn during dance performances) in my favorite color, a hakata obi (traditional geometric weave pattern classically seen on geisha) worn in a style particular to geisha, two-color dance fans, and a human-hair katsura (wig) in a styling very similar to a geisha's.





"Ayame" 菖蒲 means "iris" and is a flower that fits me for a couple of reasons: it blooms in my birth month (May) and is often seen in my favorite color, purple. :)

My kitsuke (kimono-wearing) skills need a lot of practice, but I loved this costume and will definitely wear it again.

"Samurai" Darth Maul

This next costume comes from the fact I'm aiming for an eventual full Darth Maul (Star Wars) costume, because I love challenges in costuming, but due to funding and time only had half of it done by the convention. My choices if I wanted to do it anyway were a white T-shirt with "rest of costume goes here" worn over my linen black pants and Frank Thomas black boots, or my idea to do a nod to the awesome Star Wars "ukiyo-e" paintings I saw on the Immortal Geisha forums a long while back, which featured the characters as classical Japanese nobles, samurai, demons, etc.

So I bring you a loosely-inspired "Samurai Darth Maul" in punk black hakama by indies brand Qutie Frash, a formal men's kimono and haori, boken practice sword, men's geta, and a whole lot of paint!









It was well-received at the con (Darth Maul barely talks, so with binding and a silent swagger the costume seemed to work, as I was taken for a guy all day) and an artist actually came running up to me excited because he did a series of paintings, apparently, featuring Star Wars characters in "real life" and one was a Maul samurai. It was a lot of fun all around, though I will say to any guys reading that it was tough figuring out how to walk like a guy. ;)

I will also say that after all the prep time and work that goes into Maul (bald cap, handmade horns, full head of paint) the geisha makeup seems like a breeze in comparison.

So there are two of my own kimono-based costumes! If you've done any you'd like to share, any costume that involves a kimono, please send me a link or picture! I'd love to see them. :)

Thursday, April 21, 2011

Geisha or Maiko Costumes - Odori Furisode on Ebay

Odori means "dance", which some geisha (and their maiko apprentices) specialize in as one of their arts.

An Ebay seller has just listed several odori furisode at reasonable Buy It Now prices (or if you're feeling brave you could try an even lower Best Offer, which is offered on all four).

The special feature of these kimono is how long they are, as these kimono are meant to trail across a stage during a dance performance. There's no guarantee these are actual maiko kimono (in the case of the long-sleeved ones) or geisha kimono (in the one case with the shorter-sleeved black one) because any professional dancer, from my understanding, could wear this, but they fit the same dimensions and could easily be used in maiko or geisha costumes.

Sort of like ladybugs are red, but not everything red is a ladybug. These kimono could be worn by geisha, but they're not the only ones who could wear them. If that makes sense?

Anyway, enough of my rambling. Go look at the pretty kimono. ;)

Thursday, April 14, 2011

Darari Obi Ebay Madness

Darari obi だらり帯 "dangling" obi, are a special type worn by maiko (apprentice geisha).

While most obi are around 12-13' long, these obi are much longer to accommodate the beautiful and instantly-recognizable waterfall-style "darari" knot sported by maiko only. They also feature the crests of their geisha house on the very end of the obi, another distinctive trait that separates these obi from normal, fancy obi worn by women in general.

 A row of maiko at a 2010 party, all wearing darari obi. The woman on the right is a full-fledged geisha (or geiko as they're called in Kyoto) and wears the standard otaiko drum knot seen on normal women as well.

Maiko Sayaka in a gorgeous example.

 Maiko on the move! All photos copyright Onihide and used with permission.


Right now on Ebay three darari obi are up for auction, and the prices are climbing steadily. Considering how hard they are to come by, paying hundreds of dollars for one isn't unheard of. Good luck if you decide to try for one!

Monday, November 8, 2010

Costuming: Wig Tips

If you're into cosplay or costuming and like taking it to a truly detailed level, authentic human hair Japanese wigs really perfect the whole look when it comes to traditional Japanese costumes. You can actually find them on Ebay, under "katsura", though be warned that most will technically be wedding or generic wigs rather than the higher-end ones for geisha or maiko.

However, as most Westerners don't know the difference, I don't see a problem in wearing a generic/wedding one as long as you don't claim it's a super-authentic geisha wig you yanked off a real geisha's head while on your trip to Japan. ^_^; (While maiko wigs are more distinctive, geisha ones are very similar to wedding ones in appearance.)

Should you get your hands on one of these babies, here are some tips or things you might not have known beforehand, based on my own wig purchase:

1. They are styled with camellia oil, I believe, so they have a distinct scent that I don't mind but can be a bit strong at times.

2. The wigs have a hard base, so you're more or less wearing a football helmet. I've made it eight hours in mine with some discomfort that I was able to alleviate by minutely shifting it every few hours, but I've heard the average runs more to 3-4 hours for comfortable wear.

3. For my American readers, Sally's Beauty Supply has $4 styrafoam heads, in case your wig didn't come with the traditional stand and case.

4. The wig adds a lot of mass all around your head, so if you can leave it off if you have to take any tight car rides, etc. to your destination.

Monday, October 4, 2010

Halloween Kimono Ideas

I'm shamelessly borrowing this idea from the lovely lady and friend of mine over at La Vida Frills, a fun blog abut film and the Japanese Lolita street fashion: what costumes could you make using your style, in this case kimono?

The following costumes aren't meant to be museum-quality accurate, but some ideas to get you started (or give you an excuse to buy your first kimono. ;) ) Ebay can be a great source for cheap deals if you're lacking a piece or two.

Geisha: pull your collar back, leave out the fold at the middle to let the kimono trail, add (nicely done) geisha-style whiteface and pull your hair back in a high bun. Your obi should tie in the back.

Ghost: White juban (yes, I know it's underwear but all white outer kimono are hard to get... I won't tell if you won't!) worn right-over-left, zombie-style whiteface, long messy black wig, white obi or reasonable facsimile. (If you make a cheap wide cotton one, you could also spatter a bit of blood on it and your face and spare the kimono itself).

Samurai: Most Westerners don't know the difference between men's and women's kimono, so if don't have a men's but you do have a sedately colored women's one, tie it up with a men's obi or reasonable fascimile, add hakama and a cheap knock off katana or even boken (practice sword) worn traditionally.

Oiran (high-class prostitute): Get your biggest, fanciest kimono, add nicely-done whiteface, a high bun in your hair, as many hair ornaments as you can stand, tie your biggest, fanciest obi into a huge bow in the front, and go without tabi socks when you wear your sandals.

I'm leaving out samurai drama, anime and movie characters as most people out there wouldn't be able to recognize them, but if you want to, go for it! Be aware, however, that you're not going to be able to find exact replicas of fictional characters' outfits 90% of the time (minus basic men's looks) as it's difficult, for the most part when it comes to nice silk ones, to find two kimono with the exact same patterning and colors.

Monday, September 27, 2010

Tips for Newbies: Halloween Geisha Costumes

If you're thinking of doing a geisha outfit this year for Halloween and are new to geisha or kimono, here are a few of the biggest mistakes newbies tend to make and mass-produced costumes tend to feature.

I'm not going for the strict, hardcore "OMG your seasonal kanzashi hair ornament is for APRIL, not MARCH!" level of critque, but rather eliminating the common elements of the ubiquitous and borderline offensive "geisha girl" costume to make it closer to reality.

1. Chopsticks in the hair - Japanese people don't wear chopsticks in their hair, nor do they wear ornaments in the giant X pattern you seem to see on a lot of the lower quality costumes.

2. Random multiple buns of hair piled on the head (you've seen this wig, you know you have!) - Honestly, the actual wig geisha wear is a complicated piece of work, but it definitely doesn't resemble a human-hair snowman. Aim for one higher-placed bun toward the back of your head and leave it at that.

3. Cheongsam - The cute satin dresses with slits up the side, high collars, and usually a diagonal line of buttons across the chest are Chinese, not Japanese. Wearing one with whiteface and calling it a geisha costume gives the impression you don't know or don't care that China and Japan are two very separate and very distinct countries and cultures.

4. Bad "geisha" makeup - Quarterback-heavy black eyeliner, defined red circles on the cheeks, or even kanji (characters) written on the face are not flattering on just about anyone or in the right ballpark for geisha. If you do whiteface, skip the grease paint red circles and instead apply a simple subtle pink blush on your cheeks, as you would do with your normal make-up, over the whiteface, and apply a bit to your eyes as well. Keep the eyeliner thin, just enough to define your eyes. For lips, red done in a smaller pout than usual is good but don't make the red, for example, only a half-inch across.

Tuesday, September 7, 2010

What Do You Call... Those Drawstring Bag Purses?

Today's entry is about the small little purses you'll sometimes see people carrying with casual kimono like summer yukata. Sometimes seen with a square or circular woven basket bottom, the top of the bag is cloth closed with drawstrings and is worn held at the side or dangling from the wrist.

 
Girl wearing yukata in Kyoto, with kinchaku at her side. Image courtesy Paul Vlaar, from Wikimedia.

These little purses are called "kinchaku" (keen chah koo) 巾着. As these are traditional bags, you'll sometimes see geisha and their apprentices maiko carrying larger versions of kinchaku as part of their normal wardrobe.

Geiko (Kyoto geisha) Kimika, carrying the large style held in one's arms. Image courtesy Onihide and used with permission.

Wednesday, August 25, 2010

Rose Geisha Kimono on Ebay

Geisha kimono, generally called "susohiki" or "hikizuri", are recognizable by their padded, long, trailing hems and often low dip in the back of the neck, as geisha wear their kimono slung much further back than a normal woman. They also often feature classical Japanese designs or abstract patterns.

However, every now and then, as on other kimono, you'll see decidely Western motifs.



This rose hikizuri (and a similar green one) is up on Ebay right now for $150 starting bid. I'm reminded of both the '80s and the anime "Ouran Host Club", but it would also make an awesome costume piece for a Westerner doing a "Western geisha" look. :)

If you're interested in seeing more, two places often have some to look through: Ichiroya lists all of theirs under "susohiki" and on Ebay a search for "hikizuri" will turn them up.

Saturday, August 21, 2010

What Do You Call... Fans for Dancing?

A beautiful art form and often seen at geisha performances, fans used in dance are called "mai ougi" 舞扇 (my oh gee), "dance-(folding) fan". If you're curious, the "mai" is the same one used in "maiko". :)

Mai-ougi are bigger and more lavishly decorated than the average fan, but can be found on places like Ebay relatively cheap.


One of the most famous yearly geiko (Kyoto geisha) dance events, the Gion Odori. Photo copyright Onihide and used with permission.

Wednesday, August 18, 2010

Newbie Tips: Geisha Wedding Kimono?

When shopping on Ebay or online for kimono, you'll at times see listings like "Rare Geisha Wedding Imperial Kimono", usually with a ridiculous price attached to it. The kimono may look authentic and beautiful, but is it a geisha kimono?

There are a lot of similarities between the kimono geisha use and non-geisha kimono, especially wedding types, more than I can get into at this moment in time. So, coming at this from the perspective of a kimono newbie who is likely to be overwhelmed by a list of rather small differences, here's a very short and quick way to thin out contenders:

In my experience, any listing that puts "geisha" and "wedding" in the same breath is almost guaranteed to not be a geisha kimono. Geisha kimono and wedding kimono are not interchangable and either the seller doesn't know the difference himself (rendering his likelihood of actually having a true geisha kimono virtually nil) or he's trying to take advantage of others who won't know the difference.

Monday, August 16, 2010

BBC's "Geisha Girl"

If you're interested in geisha and haven't seen this yet, the 2005 BBC documentary "Geisha Girl" is an interesting peek into what it takes to become one, following teenager Yukina as she progresses from shy country girl to sophisticated maiko (apprentice geisha).

I watched it tonight and had some major "natsukashii" (happy memories/trip down memory lane) moments about Japan. From having taught over there, I can tell you the scene with her schoolmates making a video for her is typical: the support schoolkids can at times give each other as a group was one of the more pleasant surprises about the country.

My own observation about the alcohol issue: it's not just maiko that drink. I never drank before I went to Japan but got tired of getting hassled and eventually came to like the taste of beer. Drinking is a very expected part of socialization and parties and not drinking at all becomes a giant pain to try to maintain in the face of the encouragement, questions, and/or pressure to conform.

All that said, I enjoyed the show and thought it a pretty even-handed look into the world of geisha.

Tuesday, August 3, 2010

Kyoto Geiko: Hassaku 2010

Those in the Gion district of Kyoto on August 1st might have caught a glimpse of Hassaku 八朔, ("August 1st").

It's an event where every Gion geiko (another word for geisha from Kyoto) and maiko (apprentice geisha) dress up in their most formal ensembles to visit the head of a very famous geisha dance school and then make the rounds visiting associated teahouses. Flickr photographer Onihide brings us a few lovely photos from the event, which you can see here.

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

Tsumami Kanzashi Photo Gallery

All credit for this find goes to Immortal Geisha forum member shigatsuhana (thank you!), who first posted a link there to this short article and beautiful photo gallery of traditional folded-silk hair ornaments (tsumami kanzashi).

Among the little pieces of art, made by third-generation craftsman Tsuyoshi Ishida, you'll find everything from classical cranes and maple leaves to whimsical shrimp and watermelons.