Here it is, my final post containing the text-only translations for August-February, plus links to the other months already done. (For why I'm stopping this blog,
please see here.)
This has been a really intense, interesting project and I learned a lot from doing it. I hope it will be helpful to you and please let me know (on
Facebook or
Tumblr) if you have any questions about something in the translation.
The
source for this translation is a tea ceremony website, as a note, and therefore the rules are much stricter than for everyday wear.
(If you're looking to buy kimono, I recommend
Rakuten
for new ones, especially casual wear, and
Ichiroya for nice vintage ones!)
One last request: Please credit me if you copy and post this elsewhere. I've been working on this project for almost a year. Thank you!
August
Kimono
Light-weight/sheer
materials like ro, sha, and hemp. The beginning of the month is still the
height of summer so hemp rather than silk is still predominant. With fabrics
like Echigo, Ojiya, and Noto, when they are dyed it gives a nice feeling of
coolness if a white background is used.
After the first
official day of autumn (around August 8), dark colors are desirable. Things
like ro and sha silks are the same: after the first day of autumn dark color
backgrounds are preferred to white, as they help create the sense of coming
fall.
Patterns are mostly
autumn plants and flowers, as we want to express without delay the coming of
the season. The beauty of light-weight (sheer) kimono is in one who wears their
transparent beauty skillfully.(1)
Obi
Hemp obi are paired
with hemp (linen) kimono. Ro obi are paired with ro kimono, and sha fukuro obi
with sha kimono. Outside of fukuro obi, ones like ra (silk-gauze) Nagoya/fukuro
or dyed Nagoya ro obi can be used.
Obi for this time are
lightweight as the aim is to endure the heat of the season.
Choosing colors like
light beige, tea (brown), and light light blue (mizu-asagi) 70A19F that refresh
us and pairing them with patterns that look like plain colors from a distance
but show themselves to be small designs close up is beautiful. The most
important thing to remember about the color scheme is that it should create a
feeling of coolness.
Komono
Obiage are ro or
mon-sha in plain colors or gradations, while thin kumihimo style obijime are
used.
Use silk nagajuban
with silk kimono, and hemp nagajuban with hemp kimono.
Collars should also
match the nagajuban they are attached to in terms of fabric: a silk ro collar
for a silk nagajuban.
Footwear will be made
of things like vinyl or panama: any summer-like material that gives a sense of
coolness.
Colors:
Dark blue (nou-kon),
white (shiro), light light blue, aster violet (shion-iro), off-white (kinari), tea,
crimson (aka or sha), transparent background material using dark colors.
Patterns:
Japanese pampas grass
(susuki), pinks (nadeshiko), bush clover (hagi), Chinese bellflower (kikyou),
or any of the classical “seven fall plants” (nana-kusa), Asiatic dayflower
(tsuyukusa), flowing water or rivers (ryuusui), insects (mushi): anything that
invites the feeling of autumn is a good choice.
Flowers Associated
with August
Cotton rose (fuyou),
Asiatic dayflower, Joseph’s coat (hageitou), bush clover, Chinese bellflower,
Japanese pampas grass (obana), thoroughwort (fuji-bakama), Japanese arrowroot
(kuzu), morning glory (asagao), patrinia (ominaeshi), mizu-hiki-sou (no English
name), Job’s tears (ju-zu-dama).
Patterns Associated
with August
Dragonflies (tombo),
Chinese lantern plant (houzuki), lightning (inazuma), swirls or whirlpools of
water (uzu-maki)
(1) You always
wear two layers under a kimono, one the underkimono and one a simple shift, so
in case you’re wondering no one’s running around in see-through kimono alone
during August. ;)
September
Kimono: Sheer or
unlined. The first part of the month is the final days of summer, and sheer ro
is used. Sha, being lighter than ro, can be worn during middays on especially
hot days. Choose colors, materials, and patterns that are reminiscent of
autumn.
On September 9, which
is the traditional “Chrysanthemum Festival” in the old “Five Seasonal
Festivals” calendar, kimono change over to unlined.
Fabrics like hitokoshi
chirimen, kawari chirimen, and mon-ishou are suitable, but brilliant rinzu
silks are to be avoided.
Colors that harmonize
with nature at this time of year are good choices: deep blue, grey, scarlet,
yellow ochre, light tea, and colors that are tinged with yellow.
Patterns center around
things like autumn grasses, cages for insects, and flutes. Dyed patterns shift
from monochrome to color.
Obi:
Ro tapestry (tsuzure)
is best, because while sheer fabric weaves like ro and sha are used in fukuro
obi this month, just as they were in July and August, it’s good to suggest the
coming fall by using a slightly heavier material.
Unlined kimono (not
just sheer ones) can be tied with a ro tapestry obi. However, in the last third
of the month obi change over to fabrics like brocade (nishiki-ori), tapestry
weave (tsuzure), and pongee (tsumugi).
Calm colors in neutral
hues are appropriate. Create a stylish, high-end look by carefully balancing
the lights and darks of your outfit through your kimono and obi choices.
Consider also how the pattern of your obi will harmonize with the pattern of
your kimono.
Accessories:
Obi-age are ro,
obi-jime are slightly thin. Naga-juban (underlayer kimono) are ro, as well as
han-eri (collars). For footwear, summer zori in dark colors are beautiful.
Original Author’s
Notes:
Kimono fabrics are ro
in the first half of the month and solid, unlined ones (hitoe) starting
mid-month. While September usually sees ro used for naga-juban and han-eri,
they can be traded for heavier material if cold weather arrives.
Ro obi are worn with
ro kimono, and obi made of things like ro-tapestry and brocade are worn with
unlined kimono.
Colors:
Deep navy (fukai kon)
1A4472, light ink grey (usuzumi) 939598, ochre (oudo-iro) BA8448, scarlet (ake)
ED1A3D, light tea (usu-cha) C5956B, grape (ebi-iro or budou-iro) 691C2A.
Starting at the beginning of the month, slowly add warmth (warm colors) to
monochrome outfits.
Patterns:
Wear ones like
combinations of the “seven grasses of fall”* (nanakusa) or insect cages
(mushi-kago) until mid-month. After that switch to chrysanthemums (kiku), the
moon (tsuki), flutes (fue), and gourds (hyoutan).
*The seven all
together are: bush clover (hagi), Chinese bellflower (kikyou), arrowroot
(kuzu), thoroughwort (fujibakama), patrinia (ominaeshi), pampas grass (susuki),
and pinks (nadeshiko).
Flowers Associated
with September:
Fields of flowers (hana-no)
filled with the “seven grasses of fall”, small chrysanthemums (ko-giku),
Asiatic dayflower (tsuyu-kusa), burnet (waremokou), mizubiki-gusa (no English
name, but the Latin is “Polygonum filiforme”).
Patterns Associated
with September:
Pine crickets
(matsu-mushi), bell crickets (suzu-mushi), insect cages, the first wild geese
of the season (hatsu-kari), grass with dew (tsuyu-shiba), and flutes and taiko
drums due to autumn festivals.
More Original Author’s
Notes:
Regarding wearing
unlined kimono in the first part of autumn:
September is the same
as June in that technically sheer items should not be worn. However, given that
the weather can still be hot in the last lingering days of summer, summer
transparent fabrics can be worn during the first part of month if the kimono
gives a sense of the coming fall through its color and the obi matched with it.
Because the weaker
fall sunlight is tinged with yellow, kimono that are too white or too bright
will look dull.
With sheer kimono in
sha, ro, or the like, choose a dark, deep color background over a white one.
Colors reference the colors seen blooming in fall fields, like the purple of
the bush clover (hagi), the yellow of the patrinia (ominaeshi), and the brown
of burnet.
A naga-juban’s color
should be similar or complementary to the kimono used.
The 9th of
September is called “Chou-you”, and is the Chrysanthemum Festival, one of the
traditional Five Festivals (Sekku). The meaning of the name “Chou-you”
(literally “increase of days”) is that you have two 9s: the 9 of September and
the 9 of the day itself. So the two 9s pile up.
This festival
originates in China, and during the Heian time it was called “chrysanthemum
season” in the imperial court. On that day poets and authors were invited to
write pieces and enjoy chrysanthemum sake.
In addition to the
chrysanthemum sake, in a typical household there was the custom of the “cotton
cloth” (kisewata). A cloth would be covered with chrysanthemum petals, and once
the cloth was infused with the scent of the flowers you would cleanse yourself
with it. The belief was it would purify you and keep away illness.
October
Kimono:
The calendar switches
over to lined kimono as we enter the month we can call “The Chrysanthemum
Month.” Appropriately colored rinzu silks and beautifully lustrous fabric with
woven patterns are preferred. Since long ago the colors for this time have been
the many true ones of fall, such as calm reds, yellows, browns, black, and
red-brown (azuki-iro).
Patterns are
overwhelmingly dominated by chrysanthemum. Next are dignified ones like scrolls
of sutras or religious writings (kyou-kan), scattered treasures
(takara-zukushi) or classical court patterns (yuu-soku).
On plain kimono, it’s
nice to have the lining at the bottom hem feature a seasonal pattern.
Other than rinzu silk,
chirimen is also worn.
Obi
We could also call
October “Shioze Month,” as both dyed Nagoya and dyed fukuro obi are made of
shioze silk. For motifs, hand-drawn chrysanthemums are especially popular this
month so it’s fun to try creating interesting coordinates of kimono and obi
with them.
Woven Nagoya obi of
the same formality (light, casual) can be used as well.
When it comes to
brocade fukuro obi, keep them as casual as possible. Stylish fukuro obi are
good, too. Patterns are dignified ones like “famous imported patterns”
(mei-butsu-gire) and patterns reminiscent of Noh theater costumes
(nou-shou-zoku).
Accessories
Obi-age are made of
things like winter-weight rinzu or chirimen in plain or shibori styles.
Obi-jime are flat style (hira-uchi, also known as hira-gumi) or yurugi style.
Because yurugi-style
obi-jime can be worn throughout the year, they are very handy for tea ceremony
wear. Naga-juban feature the same lined sleeves as winter-weight ones, but are
unlined in the chest area. Collars are also fabric like shioze habutae silk or
chirimen. Footwear is “enamel”(vinyl) zouri.
Original Author’s
Notes:
Regarding the color of
the lining of the skirt, if it matches the kimono itself in color that will
give the garment a high-class feel. Also, a monochrome pattern matched
according to your personal tastes works well, too.
Colors
“Fallen leaf” warm
yellow-orange (kuchiba-iro), tea brown (cha-iro), yellow ochre (oudo-iro),
asa-murasaki (light purple), reddish-brown (azuki-iro), gold (kin), silver
(gin), ink black (sumi-iro)
Patterns:
Chrysanthemums along a
wooden fence (magaki-giku), gingko (ichou), autumn leaves/fall colors (kouyou),
nuts/fruits/berries (ki-no-mi), scattered treasures (takara-zukushi), classical
court patterns (yuu-soku).
Flowers Associated
with October:
Large-bloom
chrysanthemums (tairin-no-kiku), spider mums (ran-giku), small chrysanthemums
(ko-giku), wild chrysanthemums (no-giku), fall colors, gingko, ivy (tsuta),
fallen leaves (ochi-ba).
Patterns Associated
with October:
Ears of rice (inaho),
grapes (budou), persimmon (kaki), flutes (fue) and drums (taiko) due to fall
festivals, and sparrows (suzume) and small clapper-style instruments (naruko)
due to rice.
More Original Author
Notes:
Regarding the
beginning of wearing lined kimono during the “simple” (wabi) tea ceremony
season:
This month marks the
end of using the portable furnace for heating water during the tea ceremony.
It’s nice to have a tea room that feels old or worn-out, in the spirit of the
“remains” (nagori) of the season. This word, “remains”, comes from the tea
leaves used to make both thick and light tea. Chatsubo, the pot used to store a
year’s supply of tea leaves, runs out around now and always has a few leaves
left around the mouth of the pot after a year of use, and these are called
“remains” and honored with the “nagori-no-chaji” tea ceremony.
October kimono should also reflect the “wabi” spirit and be subdued and
tasteful.
With tasteful, subdued
color kimono, wear an obi with fall scenery drawn in black, and an obijime in a
color like red or yellow to give the sense of autumn leaves and color. This way
we can truly match the feeling of the season, don’t you think?
Choose colors that
match the season in fabrics like chirimen or rinzu, and go with moderate or
subtle patterns when wearing kimono like houmongi or tsukesage. For komon, go
with small patterns like flowers or fallen leaves. Whichever you choose, stick
with only a few colors, close to a monochrome color scheme.
November
Kimono
Kimono are lined and
made of fabrics like rinzu and donsu (damask) silk with patterns woven into the
fabric itself, mon-ishou. The woven patterns are interlocking Buddhist
swastikas (sayagata), chrysanthemums, chintz (sarasa), crepe weave (nashi-ji),
and dignified ones like scraps of old patterns mixed together (kodai-gire) are
suitable.
Also, for tea ceremony
we want to avoid shiny and lustrous fabrics to help create a tasteful
atmosphere. With chirimen, choose chirimen of a rough, bumpy texture to help
deepen the feeling of fall.
Colors are autumn ones
that are soft and dark like yellow ochre (ou-do-iro), beige (be-ju), dried-leaf
brown (kareha-iro), green tea (matcha), vermillion/scarlet (shu-iro), and dark
red (enji). Beyond these colors, gray (gure-) and navy (kon) can be charming as
well.
Preferred patterns are
fall flowers or fruits, nuts, berries,
or picture scrolls depicting natural scenes. The “kuchikiri-no-chaji”
tea ceremony, when the seal is broken on a jar of tea for the next year, is
like New Year’s for tea people, so kimono with family crests and formal outfits
are worn.
Obi
Fukuro obi with
flowers done in Chinese brocade (kara-nishiki) are suitable. However, big
patterns should be avoided. Even if they’re younger-looking, go with small or
medium patterns.
Use patterns like ones
reminiscent of Noh theater costumes (nou-shou-zoku) and classical court ones
(yuu-soku). For dyed obi, you can also use ones with tea flowers (cha-ka) drawn
on them.
Accessories
Obi-age are plain or
shibori made with fabrics like rinzu and chirimen. Suitable obi-jime are ones
like kara-gumi style or yurugi style. Naga-juban are made of fabrics like rinzu
with lined sleeves and an unlined chest area. Hada-juban (the underwear layer
worn beneath the naga-juban) are made of gauze. Collars are white shioze
habutae silk.
For footwear, it’s
good to choose deep, dark color “enamel” (vinyl) zouri with a slightly high
heel.
Original Author’s
Notes: “Kai-ro”, when people start using the built-in hearth in a temple or tea
ceremony, is equivalent to the New Year’s first tea ceremony, so bright and
showy kimono are allowed.
Colors
Yellow ochre, “fallen leaf”
warm yellow-orange (kuchiba-iro), green tea (matcha-iro), navy, silver-grey
(gin-nezu), orange (daidai-iro), and dark red.
Patterns
Fruits/nuts/berries,
wild chrysanthemums (no-giku), fruit, wild geese (kari), a mix of scattered
nature and court patterns (go-sho-doki), patterns coming from old stories and
legends (mono-gatari), and classical court patterns (yuu-soku).
Flowers Associated
with November
Camellia (tsubaki),
which can be used from October to April, scattered fall leaves (chiri-kou-you),
gingko (ichou), a medley of fruits/plants (fukiyose), Chinese aster (kan-giku),
Christmas camellia (sazanka), bamboo (take) due to the peaking of new leaves on
bamboo at this time called “bamboo spring”(take-no-haru), and pine needles
(matsu-ba), which can be used from now until the “first bath” (hatsu-yu) of
spring in April.
Patterns Associated
with November
Fruit/nuts/berries,
bamboo due to “bamboo spring”, and cranes (tsuru).
More Original Author
Notes:
The
“kuchikiri-no-chaji” (“breaking of the seal ceremony”) tea ceremony in November
follows the “end” of the tea ceremony year in October. From this month on, we
start using new tea and to do this break the seal on a new jar of tea for the
year. With this and the return to using the built-in hearth ceremony (kai-ro),
it’s like a new year has begun for tea people. This ceremony in formality is
much like the actual New Year tea ceremony.
If you are invited to
a kuchikiri-no-chaji or kai-ro ceremony, wear a kimono with crests paired with
a formal obi featuring a classy pattern. In this situation there is a need for
formality. It’s appropriate to wear high-level patterns like old court patterns
(koten) or houmongi or tsukesage with fall-like painted patterns, don't you
think? Obi are brocade-weave (nishiki-ori) fukuro obi.
Also, on the holiday
called Culture Day, we can see various traditional events and activities,
including “ryuu-rei”, where a tea ceremony is done with a table and chairs. In
the case of this sort of tea ceremony, nice-quality items or ones that are a
little showy are appropriate. Obi can also be less formal, with ones like woven
Nagoya ok to wear.
December
Lined kimono are worn.
In the case of fabrics that have patterns woven into them, the type called
“mon-ishou” is a good choice. Patterns include small, repeating ones like crepe
weave (nashi-ji), interlocking Buddhist swastikas (sayagata), interlocking
chrysanthemums (
muji-na-giku),
and arabesques (kara-kusa) done in a slightly glossy sheen. If chirimen is
used, go with hitokoshi-chirimen or kawari-chirimen.
For patterns, we can
generally see ones like the “loyal retainer” (giji) or “safety in the home”
wishes (ka-nai-an-zen) style of tiny, repeating patterns (edo-komon). Choose
unsaturated colors like grey (gure-), purple-chestnut brown
(murasaki-kuri-iro), or reddish-brown (azuki-iro).
When going to a tea
ceremony in pongee silk (tsumugi), wear a plain or dyed one. Splash pattern
kimono (kasuri), even high-priced ones, are not appropriate and should be
avoided.
Obi
Fukuro obi, Nagoya
obi, chuya obi: the point of any kind of brocade obi in this situation is not
to be flashy. Instead, choose restrained monochrome designs in lacquer (urushi)
or gold and silver leaf (kin-gin-haku). With a less-formal komon kimono, a
pongee obi works as well. Patterns are ones like “treasure house” large
stylized circles (shou-so-in), arabesques (kara-kusa), and various chintzes
(sarasa). The idea is to bring the whole body together through the choices of pattern
for both kimono and obi.
Accessories
Obi-age are
plain-color chirimen while obi-jime are plain-color yurugi style: accessories
should have a look of clean simplicity.
Naga-juban become
lined, while collars are white shioze habutae or chirimen silk. Footwear is
leather or “enamel” (vinyl) zouri, and with slightly-low heels will look sharp.
Coats are essential for the cold weather. Long kimono coats (douchuugi) are
appropriate. Plain, deep colors and fine patterns (komon) are appropriate.
Original Author’s
Notes:
When considering
colors, it’s good to match the naga-juban in terms of brightness to the colors
of the kimono itself.
Colors
White, grey,
reddish-brown, brilliant scarlet (hi-iro), madder red (akane-iro),
reddish-purple (ko-dai-murasaki), mustard yellow (karashi-iro), dark green
(shin-ryoku).
Patterns
Fallen leaves
(ochi-ba), Chinese aster (kan-giku), barren fields (kare-no), barren winter
trees (fuyu-kodachi), nandina (nan-ten), arabesques and chintzes.
Flowers Associated
with December
Daffodils (sui-sen),
coral berry (man-ryou), Japanese allsprice (rou-bai), combinations of
chrysanthemums, camellia, and bamboo
Patterns Associated
with December
Snowy landscapes
(yuki-geshiki), barren fields, snowy mountains (fuyu-yama), frost-covered trees
(ju-hyou), floating sleeping birds (uki-ne-dori), Japanese citrus (yuzu)
More Original Author
Notes:
Wearing lined kimono
at the year’s end: For tea ceremony lessons, when wearing informal materials
like wool or pongee (tsumugi) there are many chances to wear them, but be
careful about how informal your outfit is.
Newly-available
materials include synthetic kimono, which you can wash in your washing machine
at home and come in a variety of patterns and colors.
With komon or a plain
kimono, young women can wear a narrow (hanhaba) obi tied in a butterfly knot
(chou-musubi) or bow-tie knot (ichi-mon-ji). Those who prefer a stylish look
can wear a woven Nagoya obi of the hassun variety.
For kimono colors, go
with light colors but not a variety of them all at once, and for komon kimono
choose smaller rather than larger patterns.
There is a word: “from
the beginning to the end” (pin-kara-kiri-made). This “kiri” refers to an
ending, in the case of this month the end of the year. There is another “kiri”,
which means “paulownia”, and because of this connection of the “end” kiri in
sound to the “paulownia” kiri, we can see paulownia patterns on both kimono and
obi in December.
January
For New Year’s Week
(Matsu-no-Uchi), formal kimono with family crests are worn. Irotomesode,
houmongi, tsukesage, and so on. Young women wear chuu-furisode.
Fabrics are rinzu or
donsu (damask) with a glossy sheen. If chirimen is used it’s good to pick the
kind that has a rough, bumpy texture. For patterns woven into fabrics, choose
from ones like somewhat large repeats of your family crest, interlocking
Buddhist swastikas (sayagata), stylized rising steam (tatewaku), mist (kasumi),
stylized ocean waves (seigaiha), flowing water (ryuu-sui), large arabesques
(oo-karakusa), or any of the many, many auspicious patterns out there!
Colors are those
appropriate for early spring: cheerful light colors are focused on like pink
(pinku), blue (buru-), light purple (usu-murasaki), cream (kuri-mu), beige
(be-ju), and young grass green (waka-kusa-iro). Grey (gure-) is also a nice
choice if it is a bright tone.
With patterns like
auspicious ones (kichi-jou), a mix of scattered nature and court ones
(go-sho-doki), and classical
court ones(yuu-soku), a single embroidered family crest on the
middle of the back will lift the formality of the kimono higher than a crest
that is only dyed.
Obi
Chinese brocade
(kara-nishiki), colored brocade (iro-nishiki), gold or silver brocade
(haku-nishiki), haku-ichou (an obi made from only gold leaf and a single
color’s thread, the contrast creating its monochrome pattern), saga-nishiki (a
brocade mixing a dyed silk weft with gold/silver/lacquered paper warp). Various
brocades are used and so mainly fukuro obi are worn.
Appropriate patterns
include very dignified ones like “famous imported patterns” (mei-butsu-gire), patterns
reminiscent of Noh theater costumes (nou-shou-zoku), auspicious ones, and
classical court ones. While keeping age-appropriateness in mind, it’s fun to
create refined coordinates with gorgeous obi that use gold and silver threads
mixed in with color ones!
Accessories
Obi-age are plain or
gradated rinzu silk, or beautiful fabrics like full shibori. Obi-jime are
styles like yurugi weave in dignified colors.
Naga-juban are lined
and collars are white shioze habutae silk. Additional fake collars can be
layered to suggest an elegant effect.
Footwear is zouri in “enamel”
(vinyl) or saga-nishiki brocade. Colors should be bright and cheerful to
coordinate with the kimono and suggest the beginning of spring. The heel should
be a little high, to go along with the month’s gorgeous kimono.
Original Author’s
Notes:
Coats used with
houmongi and tsukesage are generally made of rinzu or mon-ishou and are the
michiyuki type. To protect against the cold, warm items made of things like
velvet and cashmere are must-haves. Also, for cold weather you can put in
another layer of lining on the sleeves of your naga-juban with the same fabric
as the outside of it.
Colors
Bright colors like
pink, blue, cream, beige, young grass green, or auspicious colors like deep
green (fuka-midori), deep red/crimson (kurenai), madder red (akanei-iro), gold
(kin), silver (gin).
Patterns
Lucky patterns like
the auspicious set of pine, bamboo, and plum (shou-chiku-bai), scattered
treasures (takara-zukushi), as well as court patterns, “famous imported
patterns”, snow on bamboo leaves, a holly-like plant (sen-ryou), coralberry
(man-ryou) and Chinese winter camellia (kan-tsubaki).
Flowers Associated
with January
The set of pine,
bamboo, and plum, old pine trees (rou-shou), young pine (waka-matsu), pine in
stylized diamond shapes (matsu-bishi), old pine trees (ume-no-koboku), weeping
plum (shidare-ume), vertical plum branches (yari-ume), plum blossoms and
branches done in a circular pattern (ume-no-maru), nandina (nanten), willow
(yanagi) specifically a decorate cord made of tied-together willow
(musubi-yanagi), winter peony (kan-botan), Thunberg spirea (yuki-yanagi)
Patterns Associated
with January
Crane (tsuru),
tortoise (kame), red-crowned crane (tanchou-zuru), folded paper cranes
(ori-zuru), sparrows in winter (kan-suzume), bush warblers in plum blossoms
(ume-ni-uguisu), auspicious patterns like phoenixes (hou-ou), scattered
treasures, treasure ships (takara-bune), open folding fans (sen-men), colored
paper (iro-gami) because of the New Year’s “first writing of the year”
(kaki-zome), small narrow papers (tanzaku), toy balls (ke-mari), the character
for long life (kotobuki 寿), and the character for good fortune (fuku 福).
Original Author’s
Notes
On wearing lined
kimono for the celebration of the New Year: There are many times of year that
call for formality in the tea room, but this time of year we can truly
experience a ceremonial atmosphere as many people wear formal kimono like
irotomesode, houmongi, and layered white habutae collars. Young women wear
formal kimono like furisode or houmongi.
For the first tea
ceremony of the year, we can also wear tsukesage or iromuji. Either way, all
kimono should have a family crest. Kimono patterns should be auspicious ones,
classical court patterns of a formal variety, plants and flowers, or the like.
For kimono patterns,
try to avoid very large or showy ones as they will throw you out of harmony
with your surroundings. For kimono worn this month, fukuro obi match best.
Choose obi in heavy brocade featuring noble and dignified patterns like those
mentioned above.
February
Kimono are lined and
made of materials like rinzu, mon-ishou, chirimen, tsumugi (pongee). Finely
patterned designs of blizzards or small hail, seigaiha (stylized ocean waves),
small arabesques, kikkou (stylized tortoise shell), shikishi (paper boards used
for writing), and other seasonal patterns are appropriate.
In the case of
chirimen, hitokoshi chirimen or kawari-chirimen are good choices.
Colors are warm, quiet
ones such as navy (kon), purple-red (aka-murasaki), ink black (sumi), bracken
green (warabi-midori), and yellow ochre (oudo).
For tea ceremonies
held at night, pale colors will look nice in the darkness of the tea room.
Also, remember that the first half of February is still winter while the last
half marks the beginning of spring, so outfits will need to be coordinated
appropriately.
Obi
It’s easy to suggest
the coming season by wearing a dyed Nagoya obi featuring early-blooming spring
flowers.
Accessories
Obi-age change to
plain rinzu, while you can play around more or less with which type of obi-jime you’d like. Naga-juban are lined.
Han-eri (collars) are white shioze habutae or chirimen.
Footwear features colors like navy, wine red (enji), tea brown
(cha), and scarlet (aka): strong colors that are clearly defined. Zouri with
heels that are a little high are nice.
Colors:
Light crimson
(usu-beni), egg yellow (tamago-iro), young shoot green (wakana-iro), celadon
(aoji-iro), navy, purple-red, and ink black.
Patterns:
Plum (ume), daffodil
(suisen), camellia (tsubaki), holly (hiiragi). The first third of the month
should show the last traces of winter, while the last third of the month should
suggest spring.
Flowers Associated
With February:
Plum, rosegold pussy
willow (neko-yanagi), winter flowering quince (kan-boke), bracken sprouts (sawarabi)
Patterns Associated
With February
Barren trees in winter
(fuyu-kodachi), light snow (awa-yuki), stylized overlapping pieces of broken
ice (kori-wari), bush warbler (uguisu),
and for Setsubun (Bean Throwing Festival) picture prayer boards (e-uma)
and bells (rin).
Original Author Notes
About Lined Kimono for
the First Day of Spring (around Feb. 4): The day before the First Day of Spring
is the Setsubun festival. On Setsubun, in order to ward off evil spirits
fish/dragon scale patterns (uroko) and “seven color cords” are good choices for
patterns.
On this day we can see
many people using red, white, purple, yellow, green, blue and gold for obi-jime
colors and fish/dragon scale patterns on obi.
If you’d like to use a
seasonal pattern, go with snow. Snow on bamboo leaves (yuki-mochi-sasa),
stylized snowflake rings (yukiwa), blizzards, large snowflakes (botan-yuki):
there are a lot of patterns using it!
Another favored
pattern is plum blossom, a prized flower of early spring. The first to bloom,
its chaste beauty appears in the deep cold of winter. It is also considered an
auspicious flower.
When it comes to
variations like plum branches (eda-ume) and stylized plum blossoms
(kourin-ume), there are many designs but ones done in the bright, sharp colors
of spring are best, don’t you think?
